The Top 10 Most Common Oils Used In Soapmaking

If you are a beginner at making soap at home, you might be wondering what the most common oils used in soapmaking are. Here, we will explore the different types of oils you can find in handmade soaps, their properties, and how to substitute one oil for another when making soap at home.

Understanding Oils in Soapmaking: Base, Essential, and Fragrance Oils

Before diving into the topic of the most common oils used in soapmaking, it's important to distinguish between base oils, essential oils, and fragrance oils. Base oils are the primary oils that create the actual soap, while essential and fragrance oils are added for their aromatic properties.

What Are Base Oils in Soapmaking?

Base oils are the backbone of any soap recipe. They are responsible for the soap's texture, hardness, lather, and moisturizing qualities. In soapmaking, we combine triglycerides (plant or animal oils and fats) with an aqueous alkali (NaOH or KOH). The oil molecules convert to soap through a process involving a lye solution (NaOH dissolved in water or another liquid). Precise calculation of oils and lye is crucial; an imbalance can result in soap that is too alkaline, causing skin irritation, dryness, or eczema.

It's important to understand that soap recipes aren't as flexible as cooking recipes where you can freely substitute ingredients. The properties of the oils chosen directly impact the final soap product. When we talk about the most common oils used in soapmaking, we're referring to oils that offer a balance of lather, hardness, and moisturizing properties. If you are curious on how to adjust the ingredients' amounts, you can read our post on how to change the oil amount in handmade soap recipes here.

Types of Base Oils: Liquid and Solid

There are two types of base oils: solid and liquid. The distinction between solid and liquid oils depends on their state at room temperature. For example, sunflower and olive oils are considered liquid because they do not harden when cold. On the other hand, coconut oil and cocoa butter are solid at room temperature. When substituting oils in soap recipes, the general rule is to replace solid oils with solid oils and liquid oils with liquid oils to maintain consistency and quality.

Now, let's explore in detail the oils most commonly used in soapmaking, categorized by liquid and solid base oils.

Liquid Oils Used in Soap Making

• Olive Oil (Extra Virgin): Olive oil is one of the most common soap making oils due to its moisturizing properties. Soaps made with a high percentage of olive oil, such as the famous Castile soap, produce mild bars that are gentle on the skin. However, olive oil soaps require a longer curing time, especially when used in high concentrations (above 60%). For this reason, many soap makers blend olive oil with other oils to enhance consistency, improve lather, and reduce curing time.

• Sunflower Oil: Rich in fatty acids and vitamin E, sunflower oil is another popular choice among the most common oils used in soapmaking. It produces a creamy lather and is moisturizing for the skin. However, sunflower oil has a shorter shelf life and should be stored in cool temperatures to prevent rancidity. While it can be used up to 100% in soap recipes, a concentration of 18-20% is generally preferred to avoid a greasy feel.

• Sweet Almond Oil: Almond oil is a light, nourishing oil rich in fatty acids that provide excellent lather and skin-softening properties. Because it tends to produce a softer soap, it is often used in smaller percentages (around 10-15%) and combined with solid oils for stability.

• Castor Oil: Known for its ability to attract water molecules, castor oil is commonly used in soapmaking to create moisturizing bars with a rich, creamy lather. However, it accelerates the appearance of "trace" in cold process soapmaking, which can be tricky for beginners. A small amount goes a long way, making it one of the most preferred oils used for soap making if you are seeking a luxurious feel.

• Avocado Oil: This is one of the "heavier" oils, meaning it takes longer to absorb into the skin. Avocado oil is ideal for sensitive skin due to its rich vitamin content (A, B, D, and E). It creates caring, soft, and moisturizing bars, which is why it's listed among soapmakers' favourite oils.

• Hazelnut Oil: Hazelnut oil has a relatively short shelf life and is low in fatty acids, requiring a longer time to reach trace. To prevent rancidity, it is often used at a maximum of 10% and stabilized with rosemary oleoresin extract (ROE) or another antioxidant such as vitamin E.

Solid Oils (Butters) in Soapmaking

Solid oils, also known as butters, play a crucial role in hardening the soap and adding richness to the lather. Here are the most common butters used in soapmaking:

1. Shea Butter (Karite): A beloved ingredient in homemade soap, shea butter produces a stable lather that feels like lotion on the skin. It helps create hard and long-lasting bars, making it one of the most preferred butters for making soaps for those who want a moisturizing, skin-nourishing product.

2. Cocoa Butter: Similar to shea butter, cocoa butter helps produce hard, long-lasting bars. While it keeps the skin hydrated, using too much can lead to dry, cracking bars. It's generally recommended to use cocoa butter up to 10% for a balanced result. It also gives a nice chocolatey scent and a beautiful dark colour to the soaps.

3. Mango Butter: Known for its luxurious, silky lather, mango butter is very similar to shea and cocoa butters. It helps create a hard soap bar that feels moisturizing and is highly regarded valued among soap makers. It is typically used up to 10% to ensure a balanced, nourishing soap. It doesn't give off a mango scent (sadly), but you can feel how gentle it is on the skin.

4. Coffee Butter: Often used in body products like butters and lotions, coffee butter is creamy and rich, with a natural coffee scent. When used in soap, it provides an exceptionally smooth and gentle feel on the skin. Due to its potency, it is recommended to use coffee butter up to 5%. It is also a bit more difficult to find, and can be on the pricey side, so make sure you buy only from trusted and fair-trade sources, and not from questionable sites that offer this product supposedly cheaper, because you won't get an original product, most probably.

5. Beeswax: Beeswax is a unique ingredient that adds hardness to soap bars, making them more durable under water. It speeds up trace due to the pre-warming required to keep it in a liquid state. Beeswax is a great addition to any soap recipe but should be used at no more than 6%. We use beeswax produced by our bees located to the east of the Netherlands. Learn more about us and what we do here.

6. Avocado Butter: With a soft consistency, avocado butter melts upon contact with the skin, leaving it smooth and moisturized. However, too much can result in a softer soap bar. It is best used up to 5% for a well-balanced soap. 

7. Palm Oil: Palm oil is a high-quality ingredient that contributes to hard bars with a creamy lather. However, its production process is often associated with unsustainable practices. If you choose to use palm oil, ensure it comes from sustainable sources. I have personally chosen not to use it, even though it makes great soaps in terms of qualities. I have substituted palm oil with oils that are sustainably sourced and make up for the same qualities as the palm one.

8. Coconut Oil: Famous for its cleansing properties, coconut oil is not just one of the most common oils used in soapmaking, but definitely the most used one, due to its affordability and accessibility. It creates a bubbly lather but can be drying if used in excess. Combining coconut oil with richer oils, like castor oil or shea butter, helps balance the soap.

9. Tallow: Traditionally one of the most used ingredients for making soaps, tallow provides a stable, creamy lather and leaves the skin feeling moisturized. It is often combined with coconut and olive oils to create a rich, nourishing soap.

Now we can talk about essential and fragrance oils - similarities and differences and which ones are the most common oils used in soapmaking. If you want to learn more about how to build and customize scents when making soap at home, read our post on combining and blending essential oils in handmade soap here.

Essential Oils vs. Fragrance Oils in Soapmaking

After discussing the most common oils used in soapmaking for the base of the soap, we must differentiate between essential oils and fragrance oils, which are used for scenting the bars which is what many of us are mostly interested in as end users.

• Fragrance Oils: These are synthetic blends that combine aroma chemicals with natural ingredients. They provide a long-lasting scent in soap, which does not fade after curing. However, they are not 100% natural. Learn more about fragrance oils in skincare here in order to know more about what is considered natural in skincare fragrances.

• Essential Oils: Made from pure plant extracts, essential oils are 100% natural. They are created through steam distillation of leaves, flowers, stems, etc. Essential oils often evaporate when exposed to light and air, meaning their scent can fade after the soap cures. Despite this, many soapmakers prefer essential oils for a light, natural aroma and a chemical-free product. Make sure you use essential oils within the regulated amounts, as too much can do more harm than good, especially if you have intolerances to some of these oils. Read more about essential oils here.

Popular Essential Oils in Soapmaking

Here is a list of essential oils commonly used to enrich handmade soaps:

• Lemongrass
• Bergamot
• Grapefruit
• Ylang-Ylang
• Lavender
• Patchouli
• Rosemary

Conclusion

Choosing the right oils is crucial in soapmaking. The most common oils used in soapmaking provide different properties that affect the soap's quality, lather, hardness, and moisturizing capability. By understanding the characteristics of each oil, soapmakers can create customized recipes that meet their specific needs and preferences. Whether you prefer liquid oils like olive and sunflower or solid oils like shea butter and beeswax, each type contributes uniquely to the art of soapmaking.

If you have any questions about the properties, usage percentages, or combinations of soap making oils, feel free to ask in the comments. Happy soapmaking!